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August 2003 Food: Turkish Peek in through the windows at Seven Hills of Istanbul and you'll see terra-cotta colored walls hung with brightly colored rugs, copper pots and trays, and little shelves holding water pipes. The tables are attractively set and the charming waiters where colorful costumes based on Turkish folk tales and are truly welcoming. What more could you want? Good food, of course, and although I usually enjoy kebabs of all kinds, the appetizers and the vegetarian dishes here are the best options. The mixed appetizer plate is a great way to sample many of the starters and is large enough for two or three people to share. It includes a light, creamy, lemony eggplant salad; a smoky puree flecked with red and green peppers; glistening green beans in olive oil; white beans in olive oil; a large trimmed artichoke heart lightly sauteed with lemon, potatoes, carrots, and garlic; and crisp little pastry rolls filled with feta cheese and parsley. Feta also tops a delightful Shepherd's Salad of seasoned chopped cucumbers and tomatoes. Other appetizers I'd recommend include delicious small sauteed cakes of grated zucchini, dill, and green onions, and a pastry roll filled with pastrami, tomatoes, and green peppers topped with melted cheese; sausage with rice is moist and satisfying; the sausage is made with a mixture of lamb and beef, as is a meat loaf that also includes kaskaval cheese. Lamb chops with rice are thin and overcooked, as are the chicken kebabs. A dish of mixed vegetables over Israeli couscous with tomato broth is a very light but satisfying option. A creamy dessert called Bottom of the Pot Pudding is cooked in a pan and served in slices topped with caramelized sugar; it's the perfect way to end a meal. Those who prefer sweeter desserts will appreciate the small squares of baklava and the kadayif,triangles of shredded phyllo dough filled with pistachios and topped with syrup.
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