April 18, 2001
By Brooke Tarabour

Turkish eatery augments area's ethnic enclave

There's all kinds of food on busy Raritan Avenue in Highland Park. From pastrami to pad thai to Parmesans. If you're hungry, you can get out of your car on just about any block and be well fed.

I was thinking about this while driving down the street a couple of months ago, when my eye caught a sign that read "7 Hills of Istanbul." Having just tasted the absolute best desert pudding in the world at Alaturak restaurant in Paterson, I hoped against hope that this would be a place where I could swoon again over kazandibi, better known in Turkish cuisine as "bottom of the pot" pudding roll.

I was also really interested in learning more about Turkish food, so I parked and walked to the door. Closed. Monday. Darn, Then I walked next door and realized there's a market that goes with the restaurant, also filled with Turkish food. Could my pudding be hiding in there?

A few weeks later, I had an appointment in New Brunswick and eagerly sidetracked to 7 Hills. I sat down with Umut Gedikli, the manager of the restaurant and market, and we talked Turkish food and sample Turkish food and laughed a lot. If I said I couldn't wait to return so I could have another go at the mucver (vegetable and egg pancake with yogurt dipping sauce, $4.75) and the pilaki (white beans in olive oil, $4.75) that would be true. But then. even the arnavut cigeri (fried calves' liver cubes with onions, $6.50) are intruding on my dream, so you may have an idea of how much I liked the food.

As for the pudding ($3.50), it's there and it's wonderful and I'm not sure I can describe it, except to say, it's sort of like what might happen if creme brulee met a warm English custard. If that doesn't get your curiosity up, you might consider ordering rice pudding baked in the oven ($3.50) so it forms a a brown crust.

OK, so I've managed to start with dessert. Well, that's what made me screech on my brakes in the first place. But if you know something about Turkish food, you already know to saver room for something sweet. If you're not familiar with the cuisine, please don't be afraid of the exotic sounding dishes. Every ingredient is recognizable, spices are subtle, not strong, and the combination of flavors is memorable, so if you're in the mood to try something new and exciting, this could be your new favorite place.

In the middle of the large, attractive dining room is a small "hut" where the staff brews Turkish coffee and tea in tiny cups. There's a reason the portions are so small - this stuff is potent, but again, it's another interesting tradition and a good way to end a good meal.

Turkish music plays softly in the background at 7 Hills, and it's a pretty, serene environment. Servers are dressed in traditional garb and are pleasant and helpful, eagerly recommending their favorite dishes. Gedikli says he and his uncle, Hasan Gedelec, opened the restaurant two years ago. Both are from Istanbul and wanted to bring a more Mediterranean version of Turkish food here, thinking Americans would find kebabs and rotisserie meats, which make up most of the entrees, more palatable than say, Easter Turkish food, which is spicier.

There are about 15 meat and chicken dishes, and all are Halal (defined as food prepared and maintained in strict compliance with the laws and customs of Islam) and are marinated for at least one day. THey include iskender kebap (turning grilled beef and lamb over Turkish pita bread with yogurt and tomato sauce, $15), kuzu tandir (whole lamb baked in the oven, $18.50) and tavuk pirzola (chicken chops, $15). All entrees come with a choice of rice pilaf, bulghur (with tomatoes and peppers) or my favorite, Turkish jasmine ric, with cinnamon, raisins and pine nuts. There are sausage of all kinds, kebabs of all kinds, filet mignon and several combination options.

For vegetarians, red lentil soup ($5) is a good start. There's also a great cold sampler plate of cucumbers in yogurt, grilled eggplant salad, green beans in olive oil, hummus and sauteed fresh artichokes in lemon, carrots and potatoes. Hot appetizers also come in combo plates and included that awesome pancake of zucchini, dill, green onions an egg and another winner: sigara boregi (rolled pastry filled with Turkish feta cheese and parsley $5.25).

The kitchen at 7 Hills is open and you can see the chefs at work. Mustafa Karali heads the crew, an he also is responsible for keeping the market stocked. There the shelves are filled with cookies, candies, Turkish Delights, jams and preserves in exotic flavors (16 oz., $2.15), sauces, olives and several canned ready-to-eat meals, like fried eggplant, stuffed cabbage and stuffed peppers (16oz. $1.75). As usual in these ethnic markets, the low prices astound me, so you might want to pick up more than one dinner or perhaps some high quality preservers, such as sour cherry, blackberry, quince or apricot while you're here.

In the refrigerator cases, kashkaval cheese, which is sort of like mozzarella, but creamier, goes for $4.75 per pound, aged sheep's cheese averages $4.50 per pound and there are several fetas from France, Bulgaria and, of course, Turkey. Naturally, there are fresh olives galore. If you've never tried bastirma, you might want to pick up a piece. This cured dried beef tastes sort of like pastrami, and can be eaten as is, or in omelets if you like. There is pistachio, chocolate and vanilla halvah, lots of Turkish coffees and teas (top grade of coffee is $2.75 per pound) and a good variety of yogurt drinks.

If I have one complaint with 7 Hills, it's that the market does not carry andy of the restaurant food for take-out. I sure would love to pick up some cold appetizers, the veggie pancakes with yogurt sauce and, oh yes, that lovely little pudding that's keeping me awake nights. If this is what the bottom of the pot tastes like, can you imagine what else 7 Hills has in store for us?